Written by Christina Barrueta Photographed by Luke Irvin
The six degrees of separation theory, made famous in pop culture with Six Degrees of Kevin Bacon, proposes that any two people are within six connections of each other. For esteemed Valley chef and restauranteur Mark Tarbell (pictured on the right), these associations are often found in far fewer steps. At Tarbell’s, his eponymous eatery that opened in 1994, and later the addition of Tarbell’s Tavern and Tarbell’s Wine Store, time spent in his restaurants has served as a springboard for some of the Valley’s shining F&B stars. As a two-time Arizona Culinary Hall of Fame inductee, a James Beard Best Chef: Southwest nominee, an Iron Chef America winner and the Emmy award-winning host of the PBS series Plate & Pour, Tarbell fosters further community links. And behind the scenes, he forms more relationships as he mentors young talent and devotes his time to charity fundraising efforts.
“I think he’s amazing,” says Jill Smith, the Arizona Program Director for Careers though Culinary Arts Program (C-CAP), a non-profit that prepares disadvantaged youths for careers in the hospitality industry. “He’s always been a large part of our fundraisers, but because of the pandemic, we couldn’t hold one this year. He personally raised the money for two C-CAP scholarships and now those two kids are going to get to go to culinary school because of him. Besides giving up his time to help us raise money, and donating his own, he’s hired many C-CAP students and mentored them. I think he just embodies the spirit of hospitality.”
Cory Oppold (whose dish is pictured above) is the chef-owner of Simmer Down and has taught at Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts. He agrees, “One of the biggest things I took away is the hospitality and how insanely passionate Mark is about guest satisfaction and how much he cares about the guests themselves. He also taught me consistency in execution – how to handle 200 covers and still maintain great quality. He’s a perfect balance of chef and businessman; Tarbell’s is such a well-oiled machine.”
“Mark’s integrity in consistency of execution is impactful,” says Jim Gallen, former operating partner, and currently food and beverage director at Mountain Shadows luxury resort. “We always viewed Tarbell’s to be a three-pronged restaurant, where the food, the service, and the ambiance were equal partners in success and it was important to us to be consistent. Mark made some great friends in the Valley and those in the entertainment business were always confident that when they brought somebody to Tarbell’s, whether Mark was in the building or not, Tarbell’s would deliver.
Stephen Jones, chef-owner of The Larder + the Delta and a James Beard award nominee for Best Chef: Southwest, recalls fortuitously catching Tarbell’s Iron Chef win on the Food Network. “Then the very next day I heard they were looking for a chef,” he recounts. “I applied and did an Iron Chef tasting for Mark and Jim Gallen, and the rest is history.” He remembers cooking for celebrities such as Muhammad Ali, Conan O’Brien, Alice Cooper, Sheila E. and NASCAR driver Jeff Gordon. “Mark is a rock star,” he says. “Keeping your eyes on the prize and on the details, and knowing flavor and how to get the flavor you’re looking for, are just some of the things that I took away.”
Josh Hebert of acclaimed ramen shop Hot Noodles, Cold Sake (now closed but pictured above), spent two stints in Tarbell’s kitchen. He recalls high-profile guests such as Andrew Dice Clay, Dan Quayle and Jacques Pepin. “One night I was making a tarte tartin for Mark to use on TV the next day and Jacques offered to help me,” he recalls, “so that was super cool.” “Mark is extremely professional and instilled how important it was to treat people with respect,” he continues. “He’s the quintessential business owner. He leads by example, he gives constant feedback, good or bad, and his management style is very motivating.”
Scott and Katie Stephens, sommeliers and co-owners of Beckett’s Table and Southern Rail, met at Tarbell’s when it opened in 1994. “For three amazing and informative years, Mark instilled in us his relentless passion for hospitality and wine. I grew up in New Orleans, so wine and food have always been part of my life to some degree, but working with him really invigorated both of us. As a result, we decided we should dig a little deeper as a married couple in the service industry,” says Scott. “Working for Mark created a backbone of excellence and consistency that led us in our collective path as restauranteurs,” agrees his wife Katie, general manager at Beckett’s Table. “We would not be where we are today without him.”
“I learned so much from him,” echoes Jennifer Russo, chef-owner of The Market + Restaurant by Jennifer and Jennifer’s Catering, a recipient of a 2018 Foodist Award. As Tarbell’s sous chef, she was prematurely sidelined by a knee injury. “I really wish I was there longer,” she muses. “I loved his style, I loved his energy, I dug the vibe. Working with him really led me to where I am today. Mark just nails seasonal cooking, and he nails wine, which are,” she laughs, “my two favorite things.”
Our thriving Phoenix culinary scene is grateful for the many, many degrees of Mark Tarbell.
