A native of Huauchinango, Puebla, Mexico, Fidencio Alatriste honed his skills in some of the Valley’s best kitchens. Among his mentors are local legends like Matt Carter (Zinc Bistro, The Mission, Fat Ox), James Fox (Vecina), and Richard Sandoval (Toro at the Fairmont Scottsdale Princess and RS Hospitality concepts).
Chef Alatriste has also worked with chef and restaurateur Joey Maggiore over the years at Cuttlefish, Sicilian Butcher, and Tomaso’s, so it was no surprise when Maggiore tapped Fidencio to helm his newest concept, The Mexicano. An instant hit (be prepared for a wait), this fun and lively restaurant in Scottsdale is the perfect setting for Alatriste to weave his heritage throughout the modern Mexican menu. There’s chile en nogada, a roasted poblano pepper stuffed with picadillo, draped in a walnut cream sauce and garnished with cilantro and pomegranate seeds. “It’s a specialty from Puebla, with the colors representing the green, white, and red of the Mexican flag,” Alatriste explains. Other signature dishes include ensalada fresca, a vibrant salad of watermelon, cucumber, red onion and panela cheese with an aji amarillo-coriander vinaigrette and crispy pepitas that is inspired by Chef’s childhood memories. “When I was young, my mother would take me to the city center and buy me cups of watermelon and cucumber with Tajín salt. I took that cup that made me happy as a child and made it next-level,” he says with a laugh. And don’t miss the Sonoran Molcajete, a hot volcanic rock bowl filled with grilled steak, shrimp, chicken, nopales, panela cheese, and more, nestled in a rich bubbling sauce Alatriste playfully calls “mafioso salsa” as a nod to Maggiore’s Italian roots. “I blend different chiles–chile morita, guajillo, pasilla, and ancho–with garlic, cumin, lime juice, and honey and serve it with fresh tortillas, rice and beans. It’s Mexico on a plate.”
Here, Alatriste shares three of his favorite restaurants:
Restaurant Huauchinangos – 1620 W University Dr #5, Mesa, AZ 85201
Chef’s Thoughts: “It reminds me of my grandmother’s and mom’s cooking and tastes like home–the nopales, blue and yellow masa and fideo like they make in Puebla. It’s food you won’t find at other places. The owner is from my neighborhood and my parents know his parents. Sometimes I’ll meet people I know from Mexico, and it feels like I’m in Huauchinango.”
Favorite dish(s): “Huachitlacoyos. They’re stuffed with garbanzo beans and topped with cactus salad, chile morita, and queso fresco, and you can order them with steak or pork chops. They also have unique quesadillas with pollo en chiltepin–shredded chicken with chiltepin salsa–topped with shredded lettuce and queso fresco. ”
Mariscos El Kora – 4234 W. Indian School Rd, Phoenix, AZ 85019
Chef’s Thoughts: “It’s a small place with fresh seafood from Nayarit, Mexico. Get a cold beer and the food is so fresh you feel like you’re at the beach–seafood cocktails, shrimp tacos, fried fish, octopus. Everything is always super tasty and cooked perfectly, including the rice and beans. There’s live music called banda, and it’s a great place to enjoy with family. ”
Favorite dish(s): “Tostada mixta with octopus, scallop, fish, shrimp, pico de gallo, fresh cucumbers, and red onion, and the ostiones especiales, which are oysters topped with octopus, shrimp, cucumber, and a special house citrus salsa. The aguachile de verde–shrimp poached with citrus and chiles–is another favorite.”
Espiritu Cocktails + Comida – 123 W Main St, Mesa, AZ 85201
Chef’s Thoughts: “The menu is small and I like that. I always say when you have a small menu it gives you the chance to focus on the flavors, which is super smart. You can tell that they took the time to make sure everything is perfect–it tastes like Mexico. They have a good cocktail program too.”
Favorite dish(s): Their aguachile rojo and fundido are so tasty. People usually use chorizo with fundido, but they’ve changed the game by adding tomatillo salsa and crispy potatoes. I would never think of that, but those flavors are so good together. And the whole fried red snapper with slaw, salsa crudo and salsa macha with a base of sesame seeds–I super enjoyed it and need to go back!”
Written by Christina Barrueta
Photography by Luke Irvin