Chef’s Dish on the Dish

Hulk Hogan had the Leg Drop. The Rock had The People’s Elbow. John Cena had the Attitude Adjustment. Yes, I am talking about wrestling. But before you turn the page to content more edible in nature, allow me to connect the dots back to food.

Just as the most famous wrestling superstars had signature moves that helped them gain legions of adoring fans; chefs have signature dishes that help them gain legions of adoring diners. We recently had the chance to sit down with a few of Arizona’s most acclaimed epicurean artists to get the stories behind their big moves…er…dishes.

Stephen Jones

Chef's Dish on the Dish

There are only two dishes that have been on this James Beard-nominated chef’s menu at the Larder + the Delta since day one. “One of those two dishes has grown to be one of my most beloved: my Cauliflower,” says Jones, whose menus are acclaimed for his ability to showcase the diversity of local Arizona produce. “The dish was created day one, customer one, back in 2015 when we were at DeSoto Central Market.” Funny enough, the dish that has had guests coming back ever since almost never was.

“When we were still in the R&D phase, I conceptualized it a bit different,” says Jones. “But then as–to our surprise and happiness–a lengthy line formed prior to our first hours of operation, my sous chef and I had to think on our feet to create something that was still me, but more feasible to execute.” The result is a love letter to the veggie, which is sourced from Blue Sky Organics and paired with pickled celery, Smoked Moody Blue Cheese, scallions, and Cutinos’s Hot Sauce.

Michelle Jurisin

With eight concepts–Haunted Hamburger, Crema Craft Kitchen & Bar, The Tavern Grille, Grapes, The Clinkscale Restaurant, Nic’s Steak and Crab House, Pizzeria Bocce, and STRADA at Bocce–under her leadership, one might think chef Michelle Jurisin is too busy to be sentimental about a singular menu item. But nothing could be further from the truth. “Most of the dishes on my menus have a personal connection or family memory, but perhaps none so much as the Marsala Chops, which have been specials or limited-run items at Nic’s, and then Grapes, but now has a permanent home on the Clinkscale menu in Jerome,” says Jurisin.  

Jurisin first learned the recipe as a child while cooking with her grandma. “I’ve also been making this dish at home for my husband, Eric, for the past 36 years,” says Jurisin. The only major update to her grandmother’s thin-cut pork chops with marsala wine sauce, mushrooms, and Orecchiette pasta, is that Chef Jurisin now sources her protein from Gold Canyon Meat Co., a local Phoenix vendor.

Richard Hinojosa

Taco Trio at CRUjiente Tacos in Phoenix, AZ

This Chopped challenger named his progressive Arcadia taqueria, Crujiente Tacos, in honor of a dish, or family of dishes. “Crujiente is Spanish for crunchy, so the name of our restaurant translates to ‘crunchy taco’. Given this, it should come as no surprise what my signature dish might be,” says Hinojosa.  

Fried to order and gluten-free, Hinojosa’s Crunchy Tacos are packed with pork, lamb, or ultra-tender beef that has been marinated and braised for what tastes like days to reach an exceptional depth of flavor. The beef option is paired with melted cheddar jack cheese, cabbage, Pico de Gallo and a zesty house hot sauce. The signature crunchy taco is so popular that there is a full menu of crunchy tacos on the menu at all times.

Dustin Christofolo

Given Quiessence at The Farm at South Mountain focuses on sourcing from the onsite Soil and Seed Garden, one might expect chef Dustin Christofolo’s signature dish to be something directly from the garden. However, with his heritage in both Naples and Mexico City, the dishes most special to him represent his vision to marry the flavors of Italy and the Southwest using the freshest ingredients available.

“My Aged Beef Carpaccio with Taco Shells, which we have on both the four and five-course tasting menu, really is my vision come to life,” says Christofolo. The plate boasts pickled garlic aioli, caramelized onions, crispy shallot rings, pickled sea beans, micro cilantro, garden greens, and–of course–thinly sliced raw beef. Though, it is elevated to otherworldly levels thanks to Christofolo’s taco shells made from Parmesan cheese, rather than corn, flour, or masa.

Omar Bernal

Chef's Dish on the Dish

Like with Christofolo, it would be easy for Sushi Roku chef Omar Bernal to turn to one of his many exceptional sushi or sashimi preparations, given there are about a dozen dazzlers on his menu. “They are all amazing, I assure you. However, I always direct guests to think about one of my crudos when visiting for the first time, and they always leave happy,” says Bernal. 

While sushi and sashimi both originated in Japan–sushi typically raw fish served with rice, vinegar, and raw vegetables and sashimi just the fresh raw fish on its own–crudos come from Spain and Italy and are raw fish, shellfish, or beef topped with olive oil, citrus, or a vinaigrette. “I feel like our crudo, especially our Octopus Crudo, really showcases our team’s technique while still allowing the quality of our ingredients to shine.”

Christopher Gross

Christopher Gross of Christopher's at the Wrigley Mansion in Phoenix, AZ

When working in Paris, chef Christopher Gross came across a special, Scallops Parnassinne, wherein the scallops were stacked tall on the plate. “Later, when I returned to the United States, I created an individual cake made from chocolate mousse and sticks of chocolate meringue that I served at my restaurant in 1982,” says Gross. “One day I didn’t have any of the meringue so I wrapped the mouse with a chocolate band. Another day, I decided to use a piece of tubing to form a mold and then filled it with chocolate mousse before wrapping it with the chocolate band and pairing it with berries.”

According to Gross, people started calling the tall dessert everything from a chocolate tower to a chocolate chimney. “Eventually, I called it Parnassinne Au Chocolate as homage to that scallop dish and at one point even cooked it with Julia Child on Cooking with Master Chefs,” says Gross. He notes it now appears on his Christopher’s at Wrigley Mansion Classics Menu several days a week.

Ce Ban

Given Roka Akor holds one of the only licenses in the United States to source Kobe Beef directly from Asia’s Hyogo Prefecture, Chinese-born Ce Ban feels a special connection to the protein. “Our Wagyu, which translates to Japanese Beef, is one of the world’s most desirable and in-demand meats,” says Ban. “It must be bred from a pure lineage of Tajima-Gyu cattle that are born and raised in Hyogo.” At the restaurant, the meat is served by the ounce, based on market price.

Written by Alison Bailin Batz
Photography by Luke Irvin