Fusion restaurants are in vogue in the modern foodie zeitgeist. Some examples are a vibrant testament to their respective participants, while others fall short and do no justice to their influences. In Tucson, a land rife with potential for such crossovers, there are a handful of players that add their flame to keep the fire of fusions alive. One gem in Tucson’s Gastronomical treasure box which deserves some in-depth inspection is Zio Peppe. Their menu is grounded in the Italian staples of pizza and pasta while also drawing significant influence from the rich foods and flavors that Tucson and the Sonoran region are known for.
The concept and kitchen are helmed by Chef “CoChowner” Devon Sanner and Chef “CoChowner” Mat Cable, who are both titans of the industry and nearly household names in Tucson and Southern Arizona. The two have been business partners across various tasty endeavors for years, and have recently been focusing their combined culinary minds on fleshing out the finer points of the Zio Peppe experience. Cable spoke on how that experience was originally conceptualized saying, “When you’re a chef you kinda get tunnel vision; this is Italian food, this is Mexican food, this is Chinese food. But sometimes you take a step back and throw the rules out the window, you start to see ‘wow, some of these flavors are actually jivin’ you know?”
Keeping things local is something Zio excels at. They have deep ties with Tucson farms and produce purveyors which covers niche products like microgreens and locally foraged goods. Among their favorites are BKW Farms for citrus, several products from Iskashitaa Refugee Network, locally foraged mesquite flower that goes into their dough, and a myriad of other inter-industry connections.
This “keep it local” ethos extends into their relationships with other restaurants. Sanner is especially proud of the collective goals and ambitions of Tucson chefs as a whole. He says, “The chef community [is] very collaborative and invested in being the rising tide for each other… while really committing to what makes Tucson a City of Gastronomy. Things like using heritage ingredients and reaching out to other chefs and food artisans… and making better and better food all the time and commitment to local and independent restaurants. It is really giving a unique character and making Tucson rad…” Their local nod even extends to the name as Zio Peppe translates to “Uncle Joe” in Italian, and is homage to Tucson pizza pioneer Joe Sottosanti, who just so happens to be Mat’s uncle.
So, the ingredients are cool, the people Mat and Devon get them from are cool, Mat and Devon are also pretty cool, but what about the actual food? First up is a starter that is the distillation of all the ideas and sources they have at their disposal: the Elote Arancini. It is plated, rolled up Tucson sunshine. While it is a bit hardy for a starter, the lime crema, queso fresco, and portion size make this an exceedingly well-rounded dish to set the stage for the entrees to come. If that is a bit heavy for your first course, a very deserving appetizer is the Calamarrones which consists of calamari, chicharrones, alsace macha aioli, sweet & sour citrus, and a smattering of herbs.
Next up is a bit of lighter fare but still a dish where flavor abounds: the Salmon. Under Zio Peppe’s Et Cetera portion of the menu this lovely pairing of pan seared salmon atop a tamale cake sits in a bed of basil and pea coulis. A final few dollops of coconut-lime-butterfly pea sauce place this dish as a standout amongst the standouts. If you have a bit more substantial appetite but aren’t up for pizza, look no further than to the Beef Short Rib Peposo. This incredibly rich dish features a braised beef short rib topped with Onions en Escabeche, nestled in a bowl of polenta with red wine and black pepper braising jus. This Et Cetera item is a bit of a culinary adventure, but in no way leads the taste buds astray.
We would be remiss if we did not mention one of the menu items that helped put Zio Peppe on the map: the El Rustico Birria pizza. In keeping with the collaborative spirit, Devon and Mat have teamed up with another local chef Juan Almanza to put his legendary beef birria atop mozzarella, onion, cilantro, and consommé. This pie is a star in this culinary art gallery, and is the one dish you should try if you want to have a truly memorable pizza to brag about.
If this has whetted your appetite, Zio Peppe hosts regular wine dinners that further strengthen their connections to the community and their fellow Gastronomic Union of Tucson members. These happen with some regularity, so make sure you check out their website and social media to get the most up to date details on what they’ll be up to next.
written by: isaac stockton | photographed by: isaac stockton