Flagstaff has been known for many things over the years. Certainly, it is the proud home of Northern Arizona University. The four-season city also contains the world’s largest contiguous Ponderosa pine forest. But Flagstaff as a preeminent U.S. food city? Thanks to epicurean entrepreneurs like Dara Wong, Flagstaff is very much earning acclaim on the national stage for all things food. And to think, Wong almost didn’t go into the culinary world at all!
Wong, a native of Colorado, grew up in a family of entrepreneurs, with both her father and oldest brother leading agriculture businesses. “I distinctly remember being in my early elementary school years and seeing the pride they took in being responsible for other’s livelihoods,” said Wong. “And while at that time I didn’t know I would go into the restaurant business, I knew that one day I wanted that same responsibility.”
Initially, Wong assumed she would find her way in business ownership, not the kitchen. The talented teen swimmer earned an athletic scholarship to attend the University of Denver after high school, where she studied hospitality and business while competing at a pre-Olympic level for the Division 1 school.
There was just one problem: once she started working in actual hotels, she hated it. “I dipped my toe in the hospitality pond while still in school, quickly learning that the hotel world was a bit more monotonous than I assumed it would be,” said Wong. “The only part I loved was talking to people, especially guests.”
Around the same time, Wong began cooking on her own, both out of interest and necessity, while coaching swimming, competing, and deciding her next move. With her degree in Business Management in hand, in 2009 Wong earned her first “adult” job.
“Nope, still not in the kitchen! I actually took a role with a climbing equipment company, but was getting more and more into cooking,” said Wong. “Completely unhappy with the corporate gig, I decided to change course completely in 2010 by enrolling in the Cook Street School of Culinary Arts in Denver. Yes, I was finally getting into the kitchen.” Wong immersed herself in the program, quickly falling in love with the math and science of baking.
“I am dyslexic, so school could be hard for me, but not there. Everything made perfect sense. I found my place,” said Wong, who earned her first major culinary role at the Michelin Starred Frasca Food and Wine in Boulder. “It felt like I was taking a master class in baking and the business of owning a restaurant while there.” From Boulder, Wong would relocate to Vail, where she quickly became known as a premier pastry chef in town.
So, what brought her to Flagstaff? In 2014, THAT Place Projects was preparing to open Tourist Home Café, and Wong moved to the area to lead all things pastry for all three concepts, a role that eventually led her into taking on administrative duties as well. Within a year, she was the Tourist Home general manager as well.
“With some experience under my belt, I began looking into opening my own concept with a partner, and things really started to come together when we found a cozy coffee shop space in downtown Flagstaff on the busy San Francisco Street,” said Wong. The duo re-imaged the space as a restaurant where people could gather in intimate alcoves, belly up to community seating spaces, or enjoy the action of the open kitchen from the bar.
“We knew we wanted our space to be interactive, so in addition to the open kitchen focused on shared plates and affordable twists on what many would call classics, with everything plated in such a way that it engaged folks in conversation,” says Wong, “We named our restaurant Shift because our goal was to shift expectations, both about food in Flagstaff and the concept of going out to a restaurant for a meal.”
Shift opened on April Fool’s Day in 2016, and guests quickly realized the concept was no joke. “To say we were overwhelmed with support, both from the local community and visitors from around the globe, is an understatement,” said Wong. “In fact, it was the support that helped me realize my vision of true entrepreneurship when my partner left the business and I had to either shut down or take over all operations—while serving as a chef and our pastry lead—on my own.”
Determined, but admittedly a little scared, Wong jumped in headfirst, taking on the challenge like she did with so many swimming meets. The result? She successfully navigated the storm of the pandemic and has stepped in as executive chef of the concept when required, all the while continuing in her daily operational role and as the queen of all things pastry.
Beyond that, Shift has earned a James Beard nomination, and in 2022, Wong began to expand her emerging empire with the opening of Oeno Wine Lounge just blocks from her flagship eatery. “Oeno is the Greek word for wine, and our selection is insane,” said Wong. “That being said, we also have an impressive array of wine-based cocktails, beer, and mocktails as well.”
The best part? “Folks who come in can also enjoy Shift as we created a program where guests may peruse our Shift food menu and order from the comfort of the wine bar,” said Wong. “Our team is able to spring into action, acting as your complimentary DoorDash so you can enjoy both concepts at once.”
written by: alison bailin batz | photographed by: luke irvin