While many may recognize Angelo Sosa from his appearances on Bravo’s Top Chef and HBO Max’s Selena + Chef, he also counts cookbook author and restaurateur among his many accomplishments. In 2021, Sosa, who has opened restaurants spanning the country from New York to California, debuted Tia Carmen at JW Marriott Phoenix Desert Ridge Resort. His first Arizona venture, a contemporary southwestern restaurant named after his beloved aunt, was founded as a partnership with close friend and restaurant operator Mark Stone.
The stunning restaurant in Phoenix was designed by Thomas Schoos to evoke the beauty of the Sonoran desert. “His design vision is earth meets art,” says Sosa, “and we really wanted to accentuate that. For example, the curvatures of the ceilings replicate a Mexican cathedral, and to me, the round basket lights almost look like moons. When I think of Arizona, I think of sunsets and mountains, but also the moon and stars, since the sky is so clear.”
Sosa also captures the region on the menu, where he shines a spotlight on Arizona growers and purveyors such as Ramona Farms, Hypha Foods, Steadfast Farms, and Mount Hope. “We have to come from a place of not only intention, but passion and love,” he explains. “And that’s why sourcing is so important to me and why we list everyone that we work with on the menu.”
You’ll also notice this thoughtfulness in the handmade plateware Sosa designed in collaboration with local artist Christiane Barbato of Blue Door Ceramics. “We really wanted to pay homage to the Southwest,” he says, “and her plates have such beautiful texture, like the sand of the desert.” They’re the perfect vessels for dishes like Sosa’s vegetarian take on aguachile, Mexico’s famous seafood dish accented with citrus and chile. Here, the aguachile (“fire water”) surrounds an artful stack of avocado, cucumber, and sesame-date crumble. “This was really fun for me,” Sosa says. “We juice mint, cilantro, and Serrano chiles with ice, so the broth retains that beautiful green color.” Other knock-out dishes include Arizona Grass Fed Beef ribeye paired with a fantastic aged mole using local tepary beans, and crudo featuring tuna adorned with slivers of jicama and sprigs of dill nestled in a silky coconut-corn puree.
Rounding out the menu is a cocktail program incorporating local spirits, an expertly curated wine list, and decadent desserts like a velvety flan served with tequila-enhanced caramel and a shower of grated Manchego cheese.
“There is something special happening in Arizona and I knew it from the first time I came here,” shares Sosa. “My discovery of the Southwest has been an unveiling of the food too. I feel like we’re in the most magical place right now.”
Here, Chef Sosa shares a few of his favorite restaurants in Phoenix!
Where: Pa’La Wood Fired Cooking, 2107 N 24th St, Phoenix
What: Founded by Claudio Urcioli and Omar Alvarez, the original location of Pa’La in midtown opened in 2017. Visit this charming restaurant in Phoenix housed in 1920s bungalow for wood-fired tapas, pizza, seafood, daily pasta specials and sandwiches served on schiacciata (Tuscan flatbread).
Why: “I love the heart and soul of the restaurant. My first visit was during COVID and I had the most beautiful grain bowl with roasted octopus. The quality of the ingredients is impeccable, and the level of creativity is amazing.”
Favorite item: The Ramón Navarro bowl, a mélange of local BKW Farms whole grains, toasted seeds, roasted vegetables and beans tossed with EVOO, cabernet vinegar, and smoked shoyu. Optional additions include daily seafood specials such as wild shrimp and Spanish octopus.
Where: Bacanora; 1301 Northwest Grand Avenue, Phoenix
What: Launched in February 2021 by Rene Andrade, Armando Hernandez and Nadia Holguin, within a year Bacanora had made Esquire’s Best New Restaurants in America list and earned itself a James Beard award nomination. The menu displays Andrade’s Sonoran heritage through mesquite wood-grill signatures such as a 36-oz bone-in ribeye accompanied by cheese quesadillas, beans, and house salsas, and specials that range from grilled prawns with brown butter macha to roasted mushrooms with cilantro vinaigrette. This is without a doubt one of the best restaurants in Phoenix.
Why: “Rene’s home-style cooking is delicious. When I’m dining there, the energy and vibe is pulsating, and the food feels as if his grandmother is cooking in the back.”
Favorite Item: Caramelo, a crispy tostada layered with carne asada, beans, queso, onions, salsa roja, and cilantro, finished with a squeeze of fresh lime.
Where: Press Coffee, multiple locations
What: Launched by Steve Kraus and his wife Tram Mai 15 years ago, Press Coffee now boasts 12 valley locations. Known for its award-winning small-batch specialty coffees, Press pays meticulous attention to sourcing the finest green coffee beans from all over the world which are then roasted to order at their roastery and offered in a choice of grind including whole bean, espresso, drip, and French press.
Why: “Steve, the owner, is just a downright great guy who’s super passionate about coffee. The coffee is clean in flavor and very addictive.”
Favorite item: Four Corners Coffee, an exclusive specialty blend of beans from Sumatra and Brazil’s famed Mogiano region.
Written by Christina Barrueta
Photography by Luke Irvin