Merkin Vineyards on a mission to deliver a 100% Arizona epicurean experience
In 2004, the Arizona wine industry was still in its infancy, with just a handful of vineyards, primarily in Southern Arizona’s Willcox and Sonoita regions. Enter Maynard James Keenan who, at the time, was better known as the front man for Tool, A Perfect Circle, and Puscifer.
A U.S. Army vet in addition to Grammy Award-winning vocalist, Keenan grew up in Michigan working on local orchards and farms. When he moved to Jerome in 1995, his passion for working the land continued, and he got interested in winemaking. By 2004, he had launched his first label, Caduceus Cellars, and opened an accompanying tasting room in Jerome. Keenan soon gained a following for his earthy varietals, helping earn the Arizona wine industry worldwide acclaim along the way.
“Our Southwest wines have an identity,” Keenan said. “They stand apart from other regions, and our state producers have received countless awards to prove it. Those international accolades started rolling in once we embraced the fact that Mother Nature is in charge. We molded our practices to reflect her movements and that is when the region truly began to express through our wines.”
In 2005, the first Merkin Vineyards label appeared with a limited release of its Chupacabra. Just over a decade later in 2016, in addition to the Jerome operation, Keenan launched Merkin Vineyards Tasting Room & Osteria in Cottonwood, equal parts tasting room and full-service restaurant with Arizona native Christopher “Smithers” Smith leading the kitchen.
“I cooked for Maynard several times over the years when I worked at a slew of northern Arizona eateries including Red’s, Asylum, and Seed, which was my own concept,” said Smith. “Our paths continued to cross, and by 2015 we started talking about collaboration, bringing together his wines with my dishes. Who knew that conversation would lead to what we have today.”
While their first collaboration was the Osteria, where the hand-made pasta has become that of legend to foodies worldwide, it was not their last. In 2018, they debuted a pizza wagon and in 2019, they expanded into Central Arizona with the opening of Merkin Vineyards Old Town Scottsdale.
“In order to truly understand Arizona wines, we feel it is essential to visit these magical regions and experience them firsthand,” Keenan said. “However, not every visitor or resident of the Valley has the time to visit our vineyards given they are in semi-remote areas. As such, Merkin Old Town was meant to be an introduction to and extension of that magic.”
The space itself is 1,600 square feet and seats about 75. By design, Merkin Old Town is walking distance from LDV Winery, Carlson Creek, and Aridus Wine Company’s local tasting rooms, making it a mini wine trail. There is also a storefront section of the bar that is stocked with wines under the Caduceus, Merkin Vineyards, and Puscifer labels, featured Arizona wines, and a revolving supply of sundries from Keenan’s farms, including olives, apple butter, and jam.
“For those who have not yet visited us in Scottsdale, we offer wine by the glass and bottle as well as sparkling mead and nonalcoholic options, all paired with tapas-style dishes that are big on using fresh produce,” said Smith. “When it comes to the food at all of our locations, it is about being local first and always if we can. We have greenhouses, gardens, orchards, and olive trees across Arizona so we can grow as many of our own ingredients as possible. We even have an airstream trailer growing mushrooms. Whatever we can’t grow, we source almost entirely from Arizona farmers and artisans.”
Speaking of growing, at press time Merkin was within days of completing the biggest expansion of its brand to date. “In October, we are opening the doors to the Caduceus Cellars Hilltop Facility & VSC Ventura Room as well as the Merkin Vineyards Hilltop Winery & Trattoria in Cottonwood,” said Keenan. “This seven-acre winery and cellar, tasting room, restaurant and retail space, food production greenhouse, gelateria, and vineyard is the culmination of 20 years of blood, sweat, and wine.”
Accessible by car or via a tram at the base of its hill, the Caduceus Cellars Hilltop Facility & VSC Ventura Room boasts a 9,500 square-foot, state-of-the-art production facility, a 4.5-acre vineyard consisting of Graciano, Tempranillo, and Garnacha grape varieties, and a private tasting room. Private tastings and tours are offered to take visitors behind-the-scenes into the history and mechanics of Caduceus Cellars.
“The Merkin Vineyards Hilltop Winery & Trattoria features a 270-degree view of the Verde Valley and includes a barrel room, on-site greenhouse, and bottle shop. It will also serve as the new home of our award-winning osteria,” said Smith, noting that the restaurant is a massive 6,600 square feet, with an ample bar and outdoor patio.
Smith promises that guest favorites from the original location will still be on the menu as will fresh salads, handmade pastas, and wood-oven pizzas. “Our diners will also have a great view of our winery nearly next door, an 8,000-case production facility and display barrel room with six custom concrete fermentation and aging cubes,” said Smith. The final element of the new space: Merkin Vineyards Pocket Park Gelateria, which is at the base of the hill near the tram and led by gelato master Kelley E. Foy.
For more information, visit www.merkinvineyards.org
written by: alison bailin batz | photographed by: luke irvin