latha: african cuisine in downtown phoenix

Spread of Food at Latha in downtown Phoenix, AZ
Spread of Food at Latha in downtown Phoenix, AZ

For Evelia Davis, the encounter that fueled the formation of The Diaspora Collective is a story she loves to tell. Her journey began with a profound experience during her first visit to Africa when a kind gentleman uttered the words, “welcome home, my sister.” It was a simple yet powerful greeting that resonated with her. “I wanted to share that feeling of connection and sense of belonging,” explains Davis.  It was the impetus for launching The Diaspora Collective as an e-commerce site offering handcrafted African designs. “It was a way to get out in the community and share some of the things I discovered while traveling in Africa,” says Davis. “It has created a chance to discover, celebrate, connect, and empower Africa in the diaspora,” she continues, referencing the cultural dispersion of people of African descent that interconnects communities spanning continents and regions.

Evelia Davis of Latha in downtown Phoenix, AZ
Evelia Davis of Latha in downtown Phoenix, AZ

In 2023, Davis opened Latha restaurant and Soko market in a charming bungalow in downtown Phoenix. Discovering the historic Silva House, built in 1899, was “perfect on all fronts,” says Davis. “The restaurant was always a part of the vision; it was just a matter of when and where.” 

Latha, deriving its name from a Swahili word meaning flavor, celebrates the culinary riches that connect the African ancestry. The commemoration continues beyond the continental borders and includes the expressions of African heritage in the Caribbean, Brazil, and the American South. For Davis, it was important that the restaurant not only shared that narrative, but captured it in spirit. Davis, in collaboration with Beth Katz of Katz Design Group, designed a space that captures this vibrancy with warmth. As you cross the inviting patio and porch, you’ll notice the hostess stand decorated with “welcome” in multiple languages and a colorful 6-foot map of the African continent in the foyer. “It’s undersized on most maps, but not in our little hallway,” Davis says with a laugh. “I want people to feel the impact of the continent, of Mother Africa, and her children who are dispersed all over the world.” African art adorns the wall, woven baskets decorate the ceiling, and Afrobeats echo through the lively space. “To me, food and music are easy ways for people to experience something new and to connect as a community. It’s a core part of our values and what we wanted to create. We play music that represents Africa and the diaspora, like Afrobeat, soul, and R&B, and have live music on Friday and Saturday nights and a DJ for Sunday brunch.”

Spread of Food at Latha in downtown Phoenix, AZ
Spread of Food at Latha in downtown Phoenix, AZ

Davis elaborates on the significance of the diaspora. “The majority is in Brazil, the Caribbean and the Southern US,” she explains. “The connection between the continent and the food popular in those regions is apparent.” To translate this narrative to the plate, Davis enlisted the talents of executive chef and co-owner Digby Stridiron, a U.S. Virgin Islands culinary ambassador. Chef Stridiron boasts an impressive résumé including serving as a personal chef to celebrities like actress Vivica A. Fox and touring with musicians such as Katy Perry and Nicki Minaj. Stridiron has also opened two award-winning restaurants, Balter and Braata, in St. Croix, and garnered recognition in publications like the New York Times, Bon Appétit, and Food & Wine.

“He’s a genius in the kitchen with how he brings different flavors together,” says Davis of his innovative approach. “His menu really celebrates the foodways between Africa and the diaspora. Each dish is a unique creation that tells a story, highlighting not only the impact of food all over the world, but also the interconnection between the flavors.”

Patio of Latha in downtown Phoenix, AZ
Patio of Latha in downtown Phoenix, AZ

On Stridiron’s seasonal menu, global spice blends make appearances such as harissa-spiced salmon, jerk-seasoned pork chops, berbere-rubbed strip steak, or piri-piri glazed wings.  A summer salad could arrive as a tumble of watermelon, avocado, and jicama, accented with Ethiopian awaze and garnished with arenitas (shredded and fried plantains). Fall may usher in a medley of hearts of palm, cashews, dates, olives, and roasted persimmon. 

“Sustainability is really important to Chef Digby, as is finding local purveyors,” adds Davis. Thus, you’ll find shrimp sourced from Arizona’s The Wild Shrimp Co. in escabeche, mushrooms from Hypha Foods in the vegetarian criollo, and Chula Seafood in moqueca, a seafood stew.  “The moqueca is one of my favorites,” shares Davis. “I love it because it tells the Pan-African story so well. Moqueca is one of the national dishes of Brazil, you have rice grits, which are Southern but also rooted in African food tradition, and pickled onions, which are influenced by the Caribbean. It’s a flavor explosion.”

Zabibu Cocktail at Latha in downtown Phoenix, AZ
Zabibu Cocktail at Latha in downtown Phoenix, AZ
Cocktail Making at Latha in downtown Phoenix, AZ
Cocktail Making at Latha in downtown Phoenix, AZ

Meanwhile, general manager Will Brazil tends the beverage program which is just as thoughtfully curated. “It’s a collaboration between all of us to make sure everything complements the food menu,” Davis notes. The backbar is stocked with unique spirits such as Bayab African Rose gin, distilled with baobab fruit and African rose petals. Cocktails include fan favorites like the Drunken Elephant, a take on an espresso martini using an African cream liqueur made from marula fruit. And if you spend any time in the cozy bar, you’ll likely be treated to a pour of Will’s homemade mamajuana, a richly spiced blend of Dominican overproof rum, red wine, herbs, and honey.

“We have been blessed with the amazing amount of support from the community being open to exploring new foods and new cocktails,” says Davis. “They have not only welcomed us, but encouraged us. Our guests not only tell others, but they come back, bring their friends, and celebrate weddings, birthdays, and anniversaries. It was important to me to create a space where they leave empowered to share the narrative about the African diaspora. We’re excited to see that happening.”

 

written by: christina barrueta | photographed by: grace stufkosky