The word “Downtown” has an interesting linguistic past. One of its first documented uses is from a British soldier’s letter some 250+ years ago. The most common usage refers to the cultural and economic (and sometimes judicial) center of an urban area. While on the surface this seems pretty clearly defined and intuitive, that’s not how some folks see it. Tucson has layers to its downtown area, and on the southern fringe lies a quirky intersection and a recent hub for development: 5 Points. The lore of this gateway runs deep, and one of the key players in its legacy, since 2014, is 5 Points Market & Restaurant.
Walking up to 5 Points Market & Restaurant reveals a spread of eateries and shops emblematic of Tucson’s eclectic tastes, both aesthetic and gastronomic. Looking to the side, just before entering the verdant and welcoming patio, folks will catch a glimpse of a taste of az alumnus Forbes Meat Company. 5 Points Market & Restaurant also sits next to a small open-air park, an esoteric yet essential food stop, Cafe Desta, and, sitting in the crook of the 5-pointed intersection, a new restaurant, Ugly but Honest Pizza.
Once past the humble glass double doors, patrons are greeted by a modest market featuring two square shelving units, a chiller filled with a selection of wines and spirits, and a refined, rustic seating area with a sweeping brick wall along the north side. Taking a couple of steps inside, on the right, past the market section, is a welcoming bar that overlooks the kitchen, awash in candlelight and soft overhead paper lanterns in the evenings. The tables are constructed of chunky slabs of wood that tastefully accentuate the overall warmth the space exudes.
Getting into the menu, one item that stands out and is an absolute must-try is the vermouth service tray. It arrives on a silver tray with two carafes flanking a crisp Collins glass filled with ice, a lemon twist, and a plump olive. This is a treat and allows for folks who desire a little more say over their mixed drinks the autonomy to control their destiny. That might include the Bordiga Bianco, a sweet white, best enjoyed by slowly sipping and resisting the temptation to down it all in one go.
A tried-and-true offering at this cafe is their fries; 5 Points does not disappoint. They are hand-cut and fried to perfection. They have soft, full insides with a delicate yet distinct crisp exterior that pairs incredibly well with ketchup, thanks to the elegant salting.
Next up is the braised cabbage. The description reads “local caraflex cabbage, butter, fermented anchovy, roasted peanut, scallion.” While anyone unfamiliar may immediately balk at “fermented anchovy.” Rest assured that the flavor profile is as mild as a fermented fish can be. It adds an unconventional umami flavor to a dish that could easily be just a pile of slightly damp roughage, allowing the whole dish to shine. It is reminiscent of the braised carrot from Mercado San Agustin and is a sublime starter.
Some 10 years ago, there was a restaurant at Main Gate Square by the University of Arizona called Wilko. There, diners could enjoy a sandwich with a slaw base that was worth dreaming about. It had a perfect blend of crunch and moisture that didn’t take away from the bread base or protein, a divine complement. The Korean BBQ Pulled Pork Sandwich at 5 Points might have taken that fine meal, given it to some inspired flavor scientist, and recreated it perfectly. The pork performs a perfect balancing act between tender and chewy, giving it a definitive texture without sacrificing an easy bite. It’s paired with a heap of the fries seen in the aforementioned appetizer and is a complete flavor experience that words cannot laud loudly enough.
The Meatball Stack, as described by the manager Katie, is akin to a deconstructed, open-face meatball sandwich but elevated to previously unexplored heights. The base of focaccia bread is spongy and absorbs the deep, earthy flavor of the Bianco tomato sauce that is cleanly cut by the basil and melted onions. The crown jewel of the dish is the deceptively plump Vera Earl beef meatball, topped and slightly hidden by a generous dollop of ricotta cheese. In other dishes, the meatball is an adornment that requires flavor support from the rest of the dish, but this specimen could stand alone. It is a closed-fist punch of flavor, with a clean roll-off from savory to sweet, when eaten in the same bite with a bit of bread and sauce. Both of these entrees are primed to become part of anyone’s seasonal staples while also being perfectly at home all year round. Pairing this plate with a Nudge It Pale Ale from Slow Body would be a standout choice for these chilly desert days.
written & photographed by: isaac stockton
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