Amid the hustle of Downtown Tucson’s crowded streets, which are lined with some of the best eats in the world, lies a deceptively minimalist building with bold yet subtle lettering on its facade. This restaurant is a branch of a restaurant group that collectively calls Tucson home. BATA, a shining star in the Tucson culinary scene, is the most high-end outpost in the group, lauded for its elegant and worldly tapas-style dishes. To add another layer—literally—to an impressive guest experience, as visitors step over the threshold and into BATA proper, an equally praiseworthy establishment lies right beneath their feet. The second concept is barbata, a cocktail and beverage-focused hideaway with a few bites as well.
Chef Tyler Fenton says that while the two spaces are physically connected, their identities are very different. “BATA and barbata are totally different concepts. When we first started working on BATA, our vision was to expand and explore different creative outlets, something I feel we have succeeded with.” Chef Fenton goes on to say, “barbata is under the same roof as BATA, so there are some winks and weaves from the restaurant. But barbata was intended to be both a stand-alone experience while also complementing BATA.”
BATA’s dining room is a study in warmth and intention. As the sun sets, it casts a dramatic light across exposed brickwork, filling the open, airy space with a theatrical golden glow. The kitchen is deliberately visible to diners—a live window into the hectic but organized nature of a talented team. At the crux of it all sits the wood-fired hearth, the undeniable centerpiece of the kitchen and the soul of the cooking. The action is visible from every seat, a constant and commanding presence that shapes not just the menu, but the entire identity of the restaurant.
Similar to another very worthy watering hole in the same restaurant family, Tough Luck Club (a speakeasy of sorts located in the basement of Reilly Craft Pizza), barbata is a subterranean experience. Chef Fenton says, “barbata is physically located in the basement, so we were limited with what could be built down there.” Despite the limited real estate, the creative minds behind the concept made the space magnificent.
The stunning, historic basement space is a perfect setting for high-concept cocktails. While folks enjoy their beverages, they are surrounded by board-formed concrete and moody lighting that accentuates the textures and architecture of the nearly 100-year-old building. Of the menu, Bar Manager Andrew Scheerens says, “Each [drink] is thoughtfully crafted to fill a niche, and changes three or four times a year.” Some of their current best sellers include Barbara the Bull, a strawberry yogurt and chive cocktail, and the Snakefight, a spirit-forward tequila cocktail reminiscent of a martini.
On the other end of the popularity spectrum, Scheerens shares that there are some drinks he would like folks to try more often. “If there was a drink on our current menu I wish more people would try, it would be Jam on Toast. It’s a wild one, with marmite, caramelized labneh, and bread soaked in vodka, but it tastes just like a piece of toasted bread with berry jam.” Put simply, if guests are interested in expanding their palate, barbata is a place to explore. If none of the bespoke drinks whet your whistle, they have the means to make just about anything your heart desires within reason.
A running theme among players in Arizona’s UNESCO City of Gastronomy is camaraderie and friendship among peers. Scheerens points to one particularly special collaboration: Slow Body Brewing. “One place that’s an awesome collaborator and friend of ours is Slow Body Brewing. They have an amazing taproom, which is always a day off favorite! They’re the only local brewery we stock, and we always love seeing what they’re coming up with next.”
With a highly respected restaurant at ground level, a unique experience below, and friends and a collaborative spirit around them, Chef Fenton says that contributing to the community is at the heart of their ambitions. “Our hope with barbata is to be a contributing member of the thriving beverage scene in Tucson. Culinarily speaking, the food offering in barbata is very simple. We offer a late-night burger. But like everything we do, we do it with care and intention, and our goal is to make something delicious and memorable.” Scheerens shares those sentiments and echoes that desire. “We try to connect everywhere, and really love the restaurant community in Tucson.”
BATA and barbata are a dynamic duo, and changes are always looming in the best way. For example, Scheerens dropped some hints about some very exciting upcoming menu ideas. “Our next menu is coming out at the end of May, and has some real wild and fun summer stuff on it to look forward to.” BATA and barbata are havens for folks who want to further their pursuit of flavor and provide a crisp, refined environment that welcomes all comers, so long as they come with a little sense of adventure and a love of novelty.
written by: isaac stockton
photographed by: luke irvin
𖡡 35 east toole avenue, tucson, az 85701