In my 2019 book, Arizona Wine: A History of Perseverance and Passion, I included a mention of Emil and Cindy Molin. Although I had not yet met them, I was intrigued when I heard that they were growing Assyrtiko, a grape I had fallen in love with while wine tasting in Santorini, Greece. In 2020, Emil & Cindy founded Cove Mesa Vineyard in Cornville, in the Verde Valley AVA (American Viticultural Area). In 2021, they released their first collection, which spurred me to visit their winery and tasting room in Cottonwood. As we enjoyed savory snacks and a custom tasting, I spent a wonderful afternoon with the Molins, and walked away even more impressed by this ambitious couple.Avid gourmands, wine collectors, and previous investors in an Oregon winery, the Molins had long dreamt of owning their own vineyard. Impressed with wine crafted by talents such as Kent Callaghan of Callaghan Vineyards and Eric Glomski of Page Springs, the duo recognized Arizona’s potential and its unique terroir. Emil enrolled at Yavapai College and in 2017 graduated with a degree in viticulture (grape growing) and enology (wine making). That year, the first vines were planted—350 of Assyrtiko, a grape which thrives in a hot, dry climate.
As we sipped on aromatic Malvasia Bianca, Picpoul Blanc, and Vermentino in the tasting room, the Molins shared that all grapes for their first releases were sourced from Arizona’s most prized vineyards, such as nearby Dos Padres, as well as Rhumb Line and Carlson Creek in the Willcox AVA. Our conversation digressed into topics such as the grilled skewers of Abruzzo called arrosticini and our mutual love of the lobster rolls at Boston’s Neptune, and I discovered that both of the Molins are members of The Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, the oldest food and wine society in the world. This explains their attention to detail, which was apparent during our blind-tasting of numerous cheddars and cured meats for their charcuterie plates. As we munched, they explained how they sourced a highly specific pepperoni made by Battistoni in Buffalo for their pizza. While sipping glasses of elegant Merlot and Sangiovese, I learned of the couple’s personal 4000-bottle wine collection, plans for a larger tasting room, and how useful Emil’s law degree and Cindy’s skills in financial management are in their new careers.
Since my first stop, Cove Mesa Vineyard has garnered awards and continues to flourish. In March of 2022, it was announced that their 2018 Merlot had won the highest honors in The Arizona Republic’s annual wine competition—the Governor’s Cup and Best in Show. In fact, they received medals for every wine they entered. Their vineyards have also grown and flourished. In addition to prior plantings of Assyrtiko, Greco di Tufo, Petit Manseng, Aglianico, Barbera, Graciano, Mourvèdre, and Teroldego, more Assyrtiko and Aglianico were planted in the new Solair Vineyard site. That growth brings the total to 11,400 vines in both of their vineyards.
At the time of this writing, the Molins are amid a move to a 3,400 square foot tasting room in Cornville, slated to open in October. Painted in a dark red hue fittingly called Sommelier, their new spot occupies a prime location at the intersection of Cornville Road and Page Springs Road. “We’ll have 28 seats and serve wine by the bottle or glass with meat and cheese, hummus, and chips and dip boxes,” says Cindy as she points out a dog-friendly front porch which will feature Adirondack chair seating. As we step through the front door, she describes how the multi-tenant retail building was transformed into an open, lofty space which will house an expansive wine bar. A larger food menu will be offered inside, including Cindy’s addictive pizza. “Along one wall will be dining tables, on the other bar-height tables, and down the middle will be sofas,” she continues, “and we’ll have a space for our awards, merchandise, and display consoles for people to set their wine down as they walk around and mingle.”
Just up the road is the nine-acre Solair site, the Molin’s newest vineyard. Located just a half a mile away from the new tasting room, it’s the only vineyard that can be seen from Cornville Road and was planted last year with two blocks of Assyrtiko and Aglianico. “You can see Cove Mesa Vineyard up there,” says Emil as he points to their home on a nearby plateau with a commanding view of the Verde Valley. “Here we have about 55% Assyrtiko and 45% Aglianico so, together with what we have at Cove Mesa [vineyard], it’s about 4,000 vines of each.”
A special preview of the fall releases included 2020 vintages of Picpoul Blanc, Malvasia Bianca, Rosé, Malbec, Syrah, two Cabernets, and two Petite Sirahs. “These are small lot wines,” Emil emphasizes. “The Syrah was one barrel. The two Petite Sirahs were each two barrels. The Malbec, I think, was four barrels, and it may be the same for each of the Cabs. We’re a tiny production.“
As executive winemaker, Emil collaborates with Cove Mesa winemaker Justin Estes. “We work together to define our style, and he’s fantastic,” Emil says, and it’s evident with our first pour, and throughout the tasting. Bright acidity, notes of pineapple and lime zest, and a lingering finish defines the Picpoul Blanc. “I’m extremely pleased with this,” says Emil, “it has a great balance and mouthfeel and really unlocks your taste buds.” We continued tasting through a gorgeous Malvasia Bianca, with its floral aroma mingling with caramelized pear and baking spices. Next was a beautiful Rosé of Syrah and Grenache with layers of strawberry and lavender. As we ventured into the reds, “elegant, complex, and balanced,” are words I found myself repeating. I was especially enamored with the Bordeaux-style Rolling View Cabernet and its polished tannins. Another standout was the House Mountain Petite Syrah with its exceptional finesse and structure. I was so impressed that I ended my visit by purchasing a wine club membership.
What’s in store for the future? The Molins are looking forward to the first harvest from their estate vineyards and have plans to build a winery at their Solair Vineyard. “Justin and I are having a lot of fun,” says Emil. “We’re going to do a lot of really neat things this year that we haven’t done before, and I’m really excited about it.”
Written by Christina Barrueta
Photography by Luke Irvin