Written by Alison Bailin Batz Photographed by Luke Irvin
Back in the 90s, my dad owned a local business that served as the supplier of high-end meat to Arizona restaurants and resorts. As a result, most dinners as a kid involved one or more fancy cuts of beef, and too often me complaining I wanted pizza instead. I know. I know. What a bratty kid.
That bratty kit is 40 now, and dad is no longer with us. Thankfully, his almost nightly lessons on good steak – and the importance of sharing culinary adventures with those you love – remain. Without him here, my family is often on the hunt for the perfect steakhouse. To us, the best take pride in sourcing quality products and treat them with respect in the kitchen. They also – like my dad – delight in dreaming up ways to make guests’ evenings a little “extra,” special occasion or not. Here are some of our favorites.
Modern Oyster Bar and Chophouse
Before even getting into the food, Modern is special because it is a family affair. It was opened in central Scottsdale in 2019 by the husband-and-wife team of Cat and Randy Frankel, who worked for years at Steak 44, Zinc Bistro and Mastro’s Ocean Club, among others. The beverage manager is their son, Dylan, and pastry chef is their daughter, Samantha, both of whom also worked at Zinc Bistro. Together, they created a warm and inviting space awash in charcoal grey and deep blue hues. The location features several dining areas, many that allow a great view of the open kitchen and raw bar. An impressive outside patio with a cozy fire pit and full bar rounds out the space. Leading the kitchen is executive chef Mike Bouwens, known for his work at Roaring Fork and most recently (you guessed it!), Zinc Bistro. There are full menus of both steak and seafood options that run the gamut from 32-ounce long bone ribeye to whole grilled lobster.
Nic’s Italian Steak & Crab House
It’s another family affair here! In the mid-90s, Michelle and Eric Jurisin took a day trip to northern Arizona, quickly falling in love with the town of Jerome. So much so in fact, that they bought an abandoned building and opened what is now the Haunted Hamburger (see pg 25). Over the course of the next 25 years, the Jurisins – with Michelle at the helm as executive chef – opened a series of eateries across Jerome and Cottonwood, which is located directly down the hill, including Crema, Clinkscale, The Tavern Grill, Grapes, Pizzeria Bocce and Nic’s. The steak and crab house is reminiscent of where Tony Soprano would take his for a celebration. Meaning it is like something out of New York or Chicago, from its plush green booths and its dark woods to the pops of gold and brass. Its Tuscan-style steaks are charbroiled perfectly before being brushed with olive oil and a blend of Italian seasonings and served with massive, rich sides.
Mariposa
Losing my father unexpectedly when he was just 49 was hard, but it is nothing compared to Mariposa founder Lisa Dahl’s loss. The James Beard-featured chef was not a chef at all 25 years ago. She was in the fashion business. However, after her son Justin was murdered, she moved to Sedona seeking solace and healing. She and Justin loved to cook, so she made her way into the kitchen more and more, eventually dreaming up epicurean excellence at the highest level in his memory. Today, she is a leading female chef and restaurateur in the country, and Mariposa is one of her many lauded venues. While not a traditional steakhouse – it is inspired by the cuisines of Argentina, Chile and Uruguay – don’t sleep on it as among the top meaty destinations in the Southwest. Her bistecca (Spanish for “beef steak”) is certified USDA Black Angus and wood-grilled with bright, balanced chimichurri. Insider tip: top your cut with Dahl’s mushroom gorgonzola chipotle sauce or compound roasted garlic truffle butter. Worth it!
Dominick’s
Okay, one more “all in the family” pick for posterity. Those who see this massive palace to all that is indulgent as one of the anchors at Scottsdale Quarter are likely assume it is a massive national chain. Au contraire! Dominick’s is the ultra-high end steak concept from the Mastro family. Patriarch Dennis Mastro helped launch true steakhouses in Arizona back in the 1980s before opening the Mastro brands years later with his sons. After selling that brand several years ago, the family put pen to paper on their dream restaurant. Enter Dominick’s, which is named for Dennis’ father and – like the Mastros themselves – bigger than life. The venue boasts one of the most opulent bars in Arizona as well as an open-air dining option on the roof, complete with a pool serving as the centerpiece of the space. All of the meat on the menu is responsibly sourced, wet-aged for 28 days and hand-cut by the family’s in-house master butcher. When paired with the creamed corn crème brûlée or Alaskan king crab and rock shrimp mac’n’cheese… there simply are no words that can describe it.
Ember
The newest kid on the block, Ember opened in late 2020 at the new We-Ko-Pa Casino Resort and is owned and operated by the Fort McDowell Yavapai Nation. When seeking a chef for the fine dining concept, the team set their sights high, which paid off when they nabbed Richard Pelz. The gourmand god brought experience from a laundry list of the world’s top eateries including New York Times Four-Star La Grenouille; Louie XV in Monte Carlo, where he worked with Alain Ducasse; Martin Berasategui, a Michelin 3-star restaurant in San Sebastian; Citrine West Hollywood; and both Bottega and Redd in Napa. Pelz only uses the highest-quality USDA Prime and Angus Wagyu beef, and each protein is carefully prepared over a custom wood burning grill featuring Mesquite wood found from local trees in the area. Talk about “eating local.”
The Americano
About five years ago, Food Network star, award-winning chef and restaurateur Scott Conant moved to Arizona, eventually opening Mora Italian in Phoenix. Last year, Conant made his next culinary move, investing in The Americano in Scottsdale and jumping in as its executive chef. Today, the Italian steakhouse – in the vein of The Palm empire – serves as his creative outlet to really hone in on a more refined style of cooking, one that is a culmination of his travels. His menu is dripping with elegant steak, including prime and American Wagyu beef, and each is made to stand on its own or perfectly pair with house-made pasta, Italian antipasti, or Mediterranean seafood that will blow your mind. Inventive cocktails and a carefully curated selection of 200 distinct wines from iconic established and emerging Italian and American labels (including Conant’s private label, SC Wines) grace the drink list.
Black Bart’s Steakhouse
Enjoy the finest in oak-broiled steaks, seafood, prime rib, and more in a unique and unforgettable setting at Black Bart’s in Flagstaff, which hopes to re-emerge after closing amid COVID-19 any day. Its history is unlike any other dining establishment in Arizona in that it was born of the talents of local students! Back in 1979, Black Bart’s was actually an RV Park, but its owners had a vision of transforming it into a steakhouse filled with musically and theatrically inclined students from the nearby Northern Arizona University. The tradition continues today as Black Bart’s offers a full musical revue including entertainment running the gamut from Disney to 80s hits. Oh, and don’t miss the cocktail menu, which features drinks inspired by the Southwest.
J&G Steakhouse
In summer 2016, The Phoenician began a three-year transformation — the largest renovation since opening in 1988. While excited for the updates (sweeping, grand and breathtaking from top to bottom, by the way), the announcement made me nervous. I feared the resort’s signature eatery, J&G Steakhouse, would change too much, which would destroy me. That’s because the only thing more magical than the 270-degree views that burn into your soul, especially at sunset, is the food. Thankfully, the update only enhanced the seductive, sophisticated, all-around sensational steakhouse. The vibe is American with French influences thanks to chef Jacques Qualin, a native of the Franche-Comté region of France who was hand-picked by J&G founder and culinary titan Jean-Georges Vongerichten to lead the kitchen.
Chop, Block & Brew
In 2018, Harrah’s Ak-Chin Casino opened Chop, Block & Brew in the Maricopa region of the Valley. Rustic and relaxed yet an upscale adventure for one’s taste buds, three of the many highlights: the dry-aging of the meats, allowing them to rest in a carefully controlled state to develop a deeper layer of flavor; select steaks are sous vide, which produces a more consistent taste and size, and ensures a more even temperature based on guest preference; and there are a number of accompaniments ranging from lobster tail to maître de butter. The 3,454-square-foot restaurant features Native American-inspired artwork and design elements that highlight the culture and traditions of the Ak-Chin Indian Community. Working with the art and design committee that was appointed by Chairman Robert Miguel, the Community’s history and culture is depicted in the architecture, artwork and colors throughout the restaurant.